In which Mr Theroux (or Mr Thorax, as he memorably becomes as he tours areas where no one has heard of him) re-establishes himself in my pantheon of esteemed travel writers. In fact, this might turn out to be a favourite. After I really didn’t like his last set of essays, I was worried I’d gone off him, so this was a relief, and I will be picking up “Ghost Train to the Eastern Star”, his re-tracing of “Riding the Iron Rooster” at some point.
Paul Theroux – “Deep South”
(10 June 2017, The Works (blogged about here; still haven’t done the jigsaw))
An unusual journey for Theroux, who usually travels by public transport, in a line, dropping in on people and communities and getting one impression. Here, he makes four trips South, one in each season, and takes people at their word when they encourage him to come back again to find out more. This gives a real depth and more humanity to his book and, I think, shows him at his best. He says himself that he gets more depth and nuance this way, and also sees the small but important adjustments in communities and people. he also travels easily on good roads, so the usual travel writer’s content of moaning about terrible trains and delays at airports is just not there and he can concentrate on other things.
His humanity really comes across; he takes time to get to know people and find out their stories, and stops where he likes, as he has no plan or rail timetable. He’s genuinely angry, for example that the Clinton Foundation and other US charities give so much to other countries but seem to ignore and do nothing to help the horribly poor communities living below the poverty line in their own country (obviously, this attitude can lead to that awful thing where people complain about foreign aid budgets: he stops well short of that and it’s about helping these people as well as, not instead of, the similar communities Theroux has encountered on other continents). He gets behind the “raging politeness” of the South to find a polite and welcoming but wary and multi-levelled community and reception.
Theroux has his usual railings about people like Thoreau and at Faulkner and others for making the South look so gothic but ignoring the racism and racial inequality in their line of sight. This is part of an erudite and wide-ranging discussion of travel writers and fiction authors who have taken the South as their subject, though, good and bad. He even meets a few writers, though one hero is very slippery. He’s deeply respectful towards most of the people – definitely the genuinely struggling ones – who he meets, and highly attuned to nuance and awkwardness, even though he can be his usual grumpy and scathing self, for example at a literature festival he attends. He also has the respect to write in detail – but not gratuitously – about racially motivated crimes, and lays out their details and who has written about them as well as tracing the places they occurred. He has an interesting interlude on the “n” word, and, while he is respectful and understanding of the folk at gun shows, he certainly doesn’t support a lot of their claims, and makes that clear. To summarise: he’s human and humane and lives up to what you’d expect of him.
The sociology of the book is fascinating, especially his many encounters with small-motel-owning people with the surname Patel. As he memorably says, it’s like a load of Southern Baptists called Smith suddenly run half the paan-selling shacks in India. This is part of “non-linear ethnic niches” where there’s no underlying ethnic reason for a group of people running a lot of similar businesses, for example, it’s not like people from Beijing opening Chinese restaurants in the UK, but is like the proliferation of Greek-owned fish and chip shops. I loved all these investigations and details.
A lovely, depressing journey highlighting wonderful small self-help initiatives and interesting characters, as well as grinding, inescapable poverty and institutionalised racism that is shocking but sadly not surprising (but it should be!). He doesn’t give any real answers but then he’s not there to provide them, but to observe. And in his crumpled, older man way, often now mistaken for someone of no real importance, that’s what he does.
PS: he expresses a love for the “other” Elizabeth Taylor amidst a list of authors – hooray – although he does describer her as a short story writer.
I’m currently reading William Sitwell’s “Eggs or Anarchy”, bought on the same buying trip and number 1 in my 20BooksOfSummer. I was a long way through this one by the start of this month, so it had to take priority. What are you reading? Have you fallen out of love and back in with any authors?
Cathy746books
Jun 03, 2018 @ 18:20:39
I have only read Mosquito Coast but my Dad was a big Theroux fan so I must read some more.
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Liz Dexter
Jun 03, 2018 @ 18:38:16
I recommend all the travel books, I’ve never taken to his novels. The UK one is great, and The Happy Isles of Oceania.
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Rebecca Foster
Jun 03, 2018 @ 18:39:51
“Thorax” — too funny! I still haven’t tried any Theroux, but my father-in-law passed on his old paperback of The Great Railway Bazaar towards my travel classics challenge, so I will probably start with that one. I also have a copy of The Kingdom by the Sea, but I have an awful feeling I started that many years ago and never finished it…
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Elaine Brix
Jun 03, 2018 @ 19:02:11
…all through Asia, that is.
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Elaine Brix
Jun 03, 2018 @ 19:55:01
You will love The Great Railway Bazaar! Agatha Christie-like intense human interaction on all the big trains from Europe to Asia. A travelogue classic.
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Liz Dexter
Jun 04, 2018 @ 06:46:33
I think you’d like him – I have enjoyed all his travel books. He’s usually pretty grumpy, which I find refreshing and endearing. I feel like I want to re-read them all again now – will have to do Rooster again before doing the revisit, at very least. And welcome, Elaine, another Theroux fan!
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kaggsysbookishramblings
Jun 03, 2018 @ 18:54:45
Sounds great, Liz! I think my dad used to read him, and I have at least one of his books knocking around the house but never got round to him. It *is* nice when a favourite writer comes back with a winner. I have just had a complicated experience with a Patti Smith book – part of which I loved, and part of which left me uncomfortable. I suspect it’s that my reactions have changed rather than her fictions but it was unsettling.
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Liz Dexter
Jun 04, 2018 @ 06:47:15
I think you’d like him. It’s funny, I really don’t like his novels, but love his travel writing.
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anewlookthrougholdeyes
Jun 03, 2018 @ 19:03:50
Lovely review and a good reminder to revisit Thoreau. Perfect summer reading. Thanks Liz.
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Liz Dexter
Jun 04, 2018 @ 06:47:43
I do like a bit of travel writing as you know, perfect when you’re travelling yourself, too.
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heavenali
Jun 03, 2018 @ 23:47:41
I have never read Theroux, but I do think this sounds really good. Thinking about it, it is a long time since I read any kind of travel writing.
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Liz Dexter
Jun 04, 2018 @ 06:48:38
I’m happy to pass this one to you – although it was great, I’m not sure it’s a re-read, as a lot of it was in the plot of revisiting people and finding out more, if that makes sense. It would certainly be a good introduction to his writing.
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heavenali
Jun 04, 2018 @ 07:08:55
Thank you, no rush though. I have lots to read already. Including that book of short stories you loaned me ages ago.
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Liz Dexter
Jun 04, 2018 @ 07:26:41
I’ll just keep it on one side for you and pass it to you in the fullness of time!
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Ste J
Jun 04, 2018 @ 00:11:18
I’ve never read Theroux and knew little about him apart from people saying he was a good writer. Now I will have to find out more about him.
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Liz Dexter
Jun 04, 2018 @ 06:49:21
I reckon you’d like him and I come across his books all the time in charity shops etc. You should have a wish-list up somewhere and then if anyone is coming your way they can scour the charity shops and bring a box over for you!
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Ste J
Jun 05, 2018 @ 00:59:04
I like that idea, I miss the ease in which I could just walk down the road and finda bunch of charity shops. I still have a good few boxes of books that I would like to come over as well. I have the hankering for Anthony Powell again Stephen King’s Dark Tower but they have to be my own copies because…reasons.
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Liz Dexter
Jun 05, 2018 @ 06:24:35
Completely understandable, and it must be weird not having that urban environment with high streets full of charity shops, though obviously with compensations!
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Ste J
Jun 05, 2018 @ 23:17:50
I have been dissuaded from walking the mile or so to the nearest coffee shop as the roads aren’t the safest to walk along what with the traffic. I’m not used to transport, I like to walk and stretch my legs. Most people congregate in malls as well, as there are few local parks so I am having to look for alternatives. I already have 14 NetGalley titles though which helps.
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Cari
Jun 30, 2018 @ 18:30:32
This made me go digging for my review as this was the one where if you asked me if I liked any Theroux, I’d give this. Reading back on it, seems I’m remembering it with rosier glasses than I did at first https://www.goodreads.com/review/show/1525281753?book_show_action=false&from_review_page=1
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Liz Dexter
Jul 02, 2018 @ 09:31:33
Ooh dear! Yes, I may have slightly skimmed him going ON about bloomin’ Faulkner but I did like the way he seemed actually the most human of all his books in this one. Which might not be saying much …!
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